Un déjeuner à L'Hôtel Paris

It is one of those elite addresses that you quietly keep to yourself. L’Hôtel Paris belongs to a prestigious group of secret hideaways that you cannot help but be jealous of.

We will describe this hidden gem in more detail, situated just a few steps from the Beaux-Arts, which has welcomed guests of the highest calibre in Saint-Germain since the 1950’s; we are of course talking about its formidable restaurant.

Housed in a stunning glass-roof dining room and also a romantic courtyard, this one Michelin star restaurant has profited from the creativity of its young French chef, Julien Montbabut.

Having worked at the Pavillon de la Grand Cascade as a sous-chef for two years, the culinary prodigy was finally given a position of true responsibility, which he so rightly deserved.

Renewed every two weeks, the seasonal menu offers two lunch menus, which we tested over the course of a meal – or rather during a meal that made time simply stand still.

The plates are an anthology of colours and flavours, which exude freshness and softness, such as this appetizer, which sets the tone.

As a starter, I chose a baked farm egg in a pink garlic, chanterelle and parsley broth. The chanterelles and small vegetables were of a rare freshness, which reminded me of my culinary experiences at Alain Ducasse and Passart.

Then came the monkfish in an anise juice, with sharp chorizo, red peppers and fennel. The contrast between the soft flesh of the fish and the crispy, crackling chorizo was surprising, and made this dish a real gastronomic delight.

Main course: lamb in a thyme jus; sautéed fillet and fresh vegetables. As beautiful as it was delicious, this re-worked dish by Julien Montbabut almost overshadowed the original version…

We finished on a sweet note with a dessert made up of pineapple in a frozen broth of passion fruit, lemon cream, mango, papaya and pineapple sorbet. A real treat, with soft, buttery notes that mingled with other more acidic suggestions. To be eaten – almost – without moderation.

As you will have gathered by now, this is one of our favourite haunts. A kitchen so cared for, both aesthetically and tastefully speaking, so as to nearly eclipse the sight of the women and dandys that lounge on the crimson leather seats.

L’Hôtel Paris

13, rue des Beaux-Arts 75006 Paris

Lunch Menus at 42 and 52 Euros per person

From Tuesday to Saturday, 12:30 to 14:30

Reservation: +33 1 44 41 99 00 / www.l-hotel.com

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