We were lucky enough to receive an invite to spend 2 days learning about the history and the creation of Louis XIII.

Before we launch into a detailed account of the trip, we will first of all give you a brief re-cap of the history of the famous Cognac.

The production of  Cognac

The Cognac region

Situated in Charentes et Charentes Maritime, (an administrative region of central, western Franc), and near to Bordeaux, the Cognac region is exclusively dedicated to the growing of white grapes. Plots of land in the region are identified according to their quality as Grande champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bon Bois or Bois Ordinaires.

This is how the region gave its name to Cognac. If it is produced anywhere else, the drink is simply known as a Brandy.

L’Ugni-blanc, the Saint-Emilion of grappes

Imported from Italy, the Ugni White grape variety produces a neutral wine with a high acidity. Each grape can reach up to 30cm in length and has a flavoursome, particularly juicy taste. These are unusual characteristics for such a high quality eau-de – vivre; they would not lend themselves to the production of a good white wine for example.

Instead, white wine would be cultivated in the Grande Champagne known for its chalky and hilly terrain which forces the vines to root themselves very deeply into the soil. As a result, the vines are pressed to make an incredibly rich yet fine wine.

The vast majority of Cognac producers such as Remy Martin use Ugi Blanc grapes as well as the Folle Blanche and Colombard varieties to create their vintage wines.

A 300 year old distillation technique

Therefore double distillation usually only occurs in copper stills which are specifically designed to produce small quantities of wine.

This distillation process produces a transparent eau-de-vie that we were able to try, (despite having been warned about its taste!) However, surprisingly, the wine wasn’t nearly as unpleasant as we had expected.

The wine’s transparency varies depending on its quality and just as with a diamond, its most important quality is its purity.

Blending and ageing

Remy Martin chooses the best eau de vie which Pierre Trichet, the head of the brewery, then ages in oak casks that give it colour and unique taste.

This is an extremely complex process that requires an in-depth understanding of distillation. Nothing is left to chance.  For example, Cognac can only be aged in casks from Limousin which have to first pass solidity and leaking tests. Trichet, (who was present at the tasting session), then explained the “Angel’s share,” which is the part of the ageing process where the Cognac evaporates from these hundred year old casks, producing the equivalent of 8000 bottles of liquid on a daily basis.

Color palettes

You can describe the colour of Cognac in a variety of ways for example amber or mahogany. However there is one word that you should steer clear of: caramel.

Some Cognac producers as well as producers of Whisky, Brandy and Bourdon, specifically opt to caramelise their eau- de – vie, a process which doesn’t alter the drink’s taste, but does give it a darker, more woody, colour.

Designations

At Remy Martin, as with other breweries, there are 3 categories of eau- de – vie which are worth remembering:

• V.S. Very Special: The youngest eau –de- vie in this category is (a minimum) of 2 years old.
• V.S.O.P. or V.O. (Very Superior Old Pale or very Old): The youngest eau -de -vie is a minimum of 4 years old.
• X.O. Extra or Napoléon: (Extra Old). The youngest eau- de- vie is a minimum of 6 years old.

Cognac, unlike wine, is not classified depending on its year of production as it is blended various times during the distillation process. It’s also worth noting that again, unlike wine, once bottled, Cognac doesn’t continue to age.

Notes

Wine connoisseurs  describe the moment where you bring a glass of Cognac to your nose before tasting  as “the seduction phase.” This is, in itself, divided into 3 steps which correspond with the various aspects of Cognac’s aroma:

Firstly the nose hovers above the glass to admire the Cognac’s most delicate elements Then you hold the glass up to your nose, (fruity notes). Finally you submerge your nose in the glass to appreciate the drink’s aromatic compounds such as musk and hazelnut.

Before tasting, firstly wet your lips with a drop of Cognac to get your palate going. Only then will you be able to enjoy its flavours without experiencing an eau-de – vie aftertaste.

Tasting and visit

It was the young Michelin starred chef Philippe Saint Romas who cooked lunch for us at the Touzac distillery. He is an incredible talent whose forté is undoubtedly his puddings!

For an account of the rest of the visit, watch out for our next article!

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