Maybe it’s the similarity between the red, white and blue Thom Browne seal and our own logo that made us fall in love with the New York creations from the very start?
But one thing’s for sure, if there were a competition to decide the biggest fan of the brand, the editors at Materialiste would definitely be in first place!

So, when we heard the news that Mr. Browne is going to launch a second line that’s more accessible, Thom Grey, our reaction was slightly ambivalent. On the plus side this means that it’ll cost us a little less to look like Jay Gatsby, but unfortunately affordable prices are almost always synonymous with extreme commercialization, so we were fearing hoards of Thom Grey engulfing Paris.

 Collection Printemps-Ete 2013

What’s more, we were unsure whether they’d be able to retain their unique and timeless style while creating a collection that sells more easily. Our doubt was never-ending.
That is, until we saw the first pieces appear on the website of the American giant, Barney’s. 

 ( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )

The first thing we notice is that the prices are still very high, the Thom Grey ties range from $90 to $135 instead of the usual $180 for those signed by Thom Browne. In terms of design, the latter are still a little more exciting, the prints are more fun and the colors are bubblier. In terms of the material, the difference is the way in which the thread is woven, the Thom Browne ties have a smoother and more compact look, whereas the Thom Grey models are looser.

( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )

The Oxford shirts, at $195 (the luxury line versions range from $320 to $425), seem less well cut. The Thom Browne shirts are real gems, hugging the shoulders and the chest impeccably. It seems that there’s more space lower down on the chest and around the armholes. The sleeves have also been modified as they no longer come down halfway along the wrists, but instead end where the hand begins.

( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )

The same goes for the knitwear and cotton sweaters, there’s more room and the dimensions are less unsettling. While Thom Browne’s products are known for being short, coming up above the pelvis, these Thom Grey products are more “mainstream”, looser and more relaxed. The same is true for the shirt sleeves.

( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )

( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )

The pants are high at the waist and tight at the hips, but the Thom Grey‘s are wider under the knees, less fitted than the Thom Browne‘s and almost skinny in proportion at the ankles. In terms of the length, the first pair is hardly any longer, just a few centimeters more than the Thom Browne models, coming down just above the ankles.

( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )

To round up, the suit jackets, blazers and coats are from the same line as the rest of the collection. Easier to wear, longer and more comfortable and with more rounded shoulders.

Here in the office the editors have already fallen in love with the striped varsity jacket with its striking lettering on the back! !

 ( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )

In terms of the Thom Browne signature look, the famous blue, white and red ‘plaquette’ it has been transformed into three different shades of grey (as the line’s name indicates).

 Preview Thom Browne Printemps-Ete 2013 à Londres

In conclusion, the Thom Browne sprit is still there, but slightly toned down and transformed into something a little more reassuring. Few people could pull off the Mad Men look with its retro proportions and its conservative rectitude, so with Thom Grey, the designer his expanding his clientele.

Only available at Barney’s in New York and Harrods in London, the Thom Grey invasion won’t be happening just yet. And so much the better!

A few weeks ago we were lucky enough to fly out to New York during the Black XS Excessive Session organized by Paco Rabanne in order to attend an exceptional concert by the American band Scissor Sisters.

On the terrace of a deluxe Manhattan loft under the blazing sun, the New Yorkers performed two songs from their new album Magic Hour as well as a cover of Comfortably Numb, a little gem by Pink Floyd.

Once the performance was over it was time for an interview with amusing anecdotes in plentiful supply, and a few of them sure bordered on the scandalous!

Paco Rabanne, in partnership with Universal Music, will offer two similar concerts before the end of the year. Once again you’ll get the chance to take part in a competition and win a place. For that, meet us on the brand’s Facebook page.

We’re already looking forward to know the future bands featured and the unexpected locations!

Photo credits : “the amazing Charles Roussel !”

We do agree, this playlist is definitely late. But, we had reasons to make you wait. It is with immense pleasure and pride that this month’s playlist is brought to you by Swedish music superstar, AVICII. To celebrate his new role as Ralph Lauren Denim & Supply ambassador The Grammy-nominated and twice MTV Music Video Awards winner has put together a selection of tracks perfect for a party on the beach or on a sunny deck somewhere.

You can watch his special music video for the Silhouettes remix and starting September 5th you’ll be able to download this track on DenimAndSupply.com

Oh yes, I hear them already, those countless women who’ll be outraged at my choice of title; the same ones who’ll deprive their husband of their “dessert” for having “read” this article (or for having seen the photos, whatever takes our fancy). I totally stick by my word, Kate Upton, the “atomic bombshell” (“bombastic”, “hottie”, depending on your place of residence), could become the new Marilyn Monroe.

You don’t believe me? Below is my argument.

“God I’m totally naked!”

OVERNIGHT SUCCESS STORY

Just imagine, it’s 1944, we’re in the US, most young Americans have left for the European front and other battles in the Ardennes, and they are rather enjoying the Troy innkeepers’ hospitality (quite literally). Life, and the girls in particular, are clearly better in France, so the American government starts to freak out that the GI Joes won’t want to come back, yet there are still countries needing to be saved.

So the guys back home think up the idea of making an advertising campaign. The goal is to show the faces of those women left behind in America working in their husbands’ place. Personally, nothing excites me more than a gazelle getting her hands dirty. (god this sounds really dirty). Alternatively the other objective is to encourage filthy rich Americans to send more money to the army, all falling under the heading of “the war effort”.

That’s a nice girdle !

So when the photographer David Conover wandered around the “Radioplane Company” factory and saw Norma Jean (aka Marilyn Monroe), he was lost for words. He decided to take photos of her and advised her to become a model. Somewhat coincidentally he chose the factory owner’s wife: did someone say political string pulling?

The very sensual David Conover photo

Bref, quelques semaines plus tard, la photo est en couverture d’une trentaine de magazines, pas loin derrière les robes froufrous Gucci de l’hiver dernier.
The photo was quite clearly a failure, Norma’s not even looking at the camera, has an awkward smile and her blouse is completely buttoned up. The only thing “sexual” is the spike on this red machine, which seems keen to link up with the propeller that the young American is holding. Nope, I’m not insinuating.

The first I notice is the radiant smile !

The war is still rife in the US, against Mexican emigrants in the south, Iranians in the Middle East and Mormons in the West, so America is in need of a new sex symbol. Pamela Anderson has wrinkles, Farrah Fawcett is dead and Carmen Electra is working with Eric Judor (yep, the one from Eric and Ramzy), so a relief effort is very much in need.

The somptuous Guess campaign

She comes from Michigan (who’d have thought it, such a crappy state?) and is 19 years old: the one and only Kate Upton. She landed the Guess campaign, the brand for which she’d be the face of in 2010-11, but she only gained the attention of testosterone-charged Texan cowboys when she was named “Rookie of the Year” in “Sports Illustrated” (pure genius). However, being the American beauty that she is, Kate would become an internet sensation thanks to a video showing her doing the “Dougie” at a Los Angeles Clippers match. I would’ve done the same thing had I been dragged to a match with such a dull team. (Thinking about it, can we come back to this name? ‘Clippers’, are you serious?)

But the biggest landmark is her recent appearance in “Sports Illustrated”, on the cover this time, leaving many a guy wide-eyed in wonder. America’s lost its way, anything goes; Romney wins local elections, foie gras is forbidden and US Olympic clothing is manufactured in China.

Getting back on topic, the dudes over at GQ US put her on this summer’s cover in a tiny little bikini, and all hell was let loose once again. Further research has revealed that there was a wardrobe-malfunction while shooting the spread, so in other words Kate lost the upper part of her swimsuit while the whole crew were riding a boat. Some guys are fuckin’ lucky, I’m telling you.

LOVED BY THE MEN, HATED BY THE WOMEN

Kate Upton seems to have frequent bikini issues

In spite of her youth (she’s not yet an adult in the US), Baby Kate has managed to seduce the entire planet. There must be countless teenagers and adults dreaming of sweet porn scenarios ‘à la’ NaughtyAmerica involving Kate.

The good old jeans! (photo credit: thisishowwerule.blogspot.com)

Kate is the ultimate ‘girl next door’, almost accessible, who often wears just jeans and a white T-shirt (sometimes the T-shirt’s wet) instead of ball gowns. Marilyn was the same; they even say she was the first to wear jeans on screen. She also often drew attention to her modest origins in order to gain the attention of American presidents (yes Kennedy, we mean you) as well as workingmen

Laying our cards on the table, they are/were (the choice of tense is slightly tricky) incredibly sexy. She oozes desire and sex appeal, when we bump into Kate Upton in the street (hasn’t yet happened) “marriage” or “dinner with the parents” is hardly the first thing that comes to mind.

“Me? A bimbo?”

Yet every girl in existence loathes her. Even here in the Ykone/Materialiste offices we get looks of steel when we dare to pronounce the words “Kate” and “Upton” in the same sentence. “Vulgar”, “bimbo”, “featherbrained” or “dick-tease” are some of the words used when one of us shares a slightly revealing photo of 33-25-36 on Skype. (Yes, we use these measurements as a code).

Marilyn has often put up with the same prejudice, for example when she was taken aside in a cinema by a group of mean Americans who didn’t appreciate her dress, judging it to be too provocative.

“I’m so hood!”

Kate (like Marilyn) immediately turns heads when she walks into a room, with her blonde hair, her perfect physique and her simple smile. In a nutshell she’s the ultimate ‘bimbo-package’ causing many a guy to fall at her feet (even the strongest among us).

SCANDALS? THEY KNOW THEM WELL!

“Can’t tell you man…way too many” would be anyone’s reply if we asked him to list Marilyn’s mistakes. I’ve picked out two with one extra for luck: firstly, the time when she posed naked on a calendar, apparently in order to “pay the rent”. Bear in mind that around 95% of Americans would have voluntarily dug deep in their pockets in order to pay her “rent”. (Edit: after some intense research, I found out she only got 50$ for the job.)

The infamous calendar

In terms of her most extreme mess-up, I’m unsure whether to pick the presumed orgies with the Kennedy brothers and Frank Sinatra at the Carlyle, or the sextape which recently surfaced (and was sold for 1,5 million dollars at auction). This video came into the hands of the FBI, who originally thought that the man featured was JF Kennedy himself. So it’s kind of the same stupidity, just at different levels. That said, I’d be interested to see if there’s a star out there who’d be able to sell a sex-tape for more than 2 million dollars.

Kenny & Mary’

Kate’s not quite there yet, though it would be funny to launch the rumor of… Okay, after thinking about it, I take back what I said about the star who could sell her sex-tape for a higher price, I’d pay 3 million in cash for the video of Barack and Kate (1 million extra if Michelle made a cameo appearance).

Source: Kate’s personal Twitter account

The first real scandal for Kate was her video filmed by Terry Richardson, the American photographer/”sexual offender”, when she danced the “Cat Daddy” in a tiny bikini…and when I say tiny, I mean tiny…

Rumors are also flying that she’s dating not one but two New York Jets quarterbacks. Poor Tebow and Sanchez, they don’t need that shit. One more? Last year Miss Upton found nothing better to do than getting up to mischief on the balcony of the Martinez hotel,in a passionate embrace with Kanye West.

MORE THAN JUST BOMBSHELLS ?

We’re all agreed on one thing: Marilyn’s cinematic career was fairly successful, with “The Prince and the Showgirl”, “Some Like It Hot”, “Bus Stop” and “the Seven Year Itch” among just some of her most well-known performances..

And Kate? Okay she may have a lot to learn, but then again she’s still young; it’s just a question of time.
Though when she gets out of that pool in “The Three Stooges” (below), with the one-piece nun-inspired suit, it sure ruins our hopes of being happy with any other girl in the world.

Of course though, Marilyn is a legend. She continues to make headlines even fifty years after her death. Kate Upton is just a nice piece of meat as of right now, but I’m not afraid to say that if she scores a few great roles she can become more than just a brainless American bombshell.

Kate, we do love you.

The prestige brand Perrier-Jouët reveals its first artistic collaboration since the creation of the famous white anemones of Japan by Emile Gallé.

This time the brand has called upon Makoto Azuma, renowned Japanese floral artist, to create a work dedicated to the Bell Époque cuvée. Azuma created a three-dimensional frame in which he suspended the flowers, “a contemporary vision of beauty” which enabled him to finalize and inspire his design.

For this first ever limited edition version, Perrier-Jouët’s cellar master Hervé Deschamps has chosen the 2004 vintage with its exceptionally long finish and a taste that hints at flowers and white fruit.

In this extraordinary dialogue through time, the bottle carries the work of two artists separated by 100 years.

The Italian brand Bottega Veneta has joined forces with the high-performance camera producer Red Digital and with Vogue magazine for a young photographer’s competition entitled ‘New Exposure’.

10 finalists were chosen from 500 candidates, and the winner will receive $10,000 as well as a RED-Epic-X camera as well as a year of counseling by the Management Artists agency and the opportunity to carry out a project for Bottega Veneta.

The winner will be announced on 11 July during a ceremony in New York.

 Bj Formentero

As part of the ‘People’s Choice Award’, you can vote for your favorite photographer (on the Facebook tab specially put in place) and you may be the lucky winner of a framed and signed original photograph from the winning artist.

EA7 Emporio Armani is the sponsor and official outfitter of the Italian Team that will be participating in the London Olympic and Paralympics 2012.

“The Sense of Being” is the powerful picthline that was artistically presented in these black & white videos insisting on the performance of every athlete in their respective sport.

In order of apparition, Antonietta Di Martino as the High Jumper, Andre Cassara for Fencing and Luca Dotto for swimming.

Have a look at our varied mix of music for this month, to listen to wherever and whenever you want…

KANYE WEST – WAY TOO COLD

HOT CHIP – FLUTES

JAI PAUL – JASMINE

NIKI AND THE DOVE – TOMORROW

KID SISTER – RIGHT HAND HI

CASSIE – KING OF HEART (RICHARD X RICHARD MIX)

NAS – THE DON

ARCADE FIRE – SPRAWL II (SOULWAX MIX)

KANYE WEST, BIG SEAN, PUSHA-T & 2 CHAINZ – MERCY

Times are moving fast in fashion, that’s no surprise. The fashion industry can be very exciting, but also, very bewildering. One day you’re in, the next, you’re out.

On March 3rd, in the middle of Paris women’s fashion week, I sat down to talk with Simon Spurr at the CFDA’s “Americans in Paris” showroom. We discussed his brand, his latest collection, his previous experiences working at YSL with Hedi Slimane, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren and his plans for the future. He enthusiastically showed me the collection and told me how excited he was that Bradley Cooper would be wearing his three-piece suit in the upcoming months. His infectious smile and radiating charm cast a spell over me.

Two weeks later, Women’s Wear Daily ruined my Sunday brunch with the announcement that Simon was leaving his eponymous label. The news came as a shock to everyone in the industry. Simon wrote in an email to WWD: “At this moment, I’m not at liberty to say anything about what’s gone on,” adding even more intrigue. Only two days before, the CFDA had nominated him as one of the three designers in the run for the Best Designer In America award. I know he must feel very honored, as he had told me that this kind of recognition means a lot to him.

The rumor mill has continued churning and currently, the future of the Simon Spurr brand is unclear. On March 21st, WWD reported that even the Simon Spurr executives had been shocked by the announcement that Simon was leaving and wrote that Simon Spurr co-founder, Judd Nydes, was allegedly trying to keep the label alive going forward. From my conversation with Simon, it is hard to believe the brand can go on without him. Meanwhile, several websites have reported that Simon Spurr’s PR has stopped all sample loans to magazines. So the million dollar question still remains: what happened?

My interview with Simon certainly does not offer any answers. But it is an interesting insight into just how quickly things can change in the fashion world. What are your thoughts on Simon Spurr’s departure? Where do you expect to see him next?

Here is a look at the lost interview:

First, can you talk about your last collection? What were the story and inspirations behind it?

For me it’s always about an evolution. I’m building a story on this British heritage that I’ve established over the past few seasons. This collection was really based around the distinguished gentlemen. I was greatly inspired by Robert Frank’s imagery of the 1950s. He has a book called London/Wales where there are pictures of these very elegant gentlemen in a foggy London. Obviously menswear has a lot of boundaries and I think it’s interesting to push those restrictions while some people let them restrict their work. I think I’m working within the rules but also creating new rules.

How has your creative process evolved since you started?

Each season I try to raise the bar for myself. I obviously listen to what critics say but I’m my own toughest critic. One thing I learned at Ralph Lauren is that when you build a brand, you’ve got to have certain elements of repetition. It is important to establish yourself in the market. To reiterate my signature—this clean, modern, British aesthetic—is important, as opposed to jumping around. Also it’s an extension of me: the brand’s DNA is my own DNA. Advice that was given to me early on in my career was to stay true to your DNA; if you start venturing out, doing something that’s not naturally inherent to you, I think that’s when people get into trouble and brands lose their visual identity. In the beginning, a brand is always in its purest form. It’s a very refined idea, a very focused and concentrated idea, so I try to remain focused on where I come from and where I want to go. I evolve the collection each season and take my customers with me in that journey.

How do you renew yourself each season then?

Normally I start the design process from fabric and color. Most of the times I let fabric dictate while inspiration can come from a film, the way someone put clothes together in the subway, or it could be anything. You could put the same image in front of ten designers and everyone will see that image in a different way. Even sometimes when you look back at the same reference points from season to season, your eye has changed or you’ve discovered a new manufacturing process that you didn’t know six months ago. As much as the design is important, it’s really the color, the fabric, the prints and texture that change and help define each season. This season it was about the houndstooth, and next season it will be something else.

You have worked with Hedi Slimane, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. What did you learn from each of those guys?

At Ralph Lauren, it was about building a brand, about repetition, about taking ownership of certain product categories. When you think of Purple Label, you think of a pin stripe suit. I think most people now see Simon Spurr as a young modern suit brand for the red carpet– kind of young hollywood style– which is good. It’s always good to be known for something.
At Calvin Klein, it was all about removing elements to allow the garment to be as pure and clean as it could be. For example, removing the distraction of pockets that didn’t need to be there, or zips that had no function.
Hedi [Slimane], finally, was the most influential for me. He basically didn’t like trend books — literally dropping them in the trash saying, “we don’t follow trends, we create them.” He was the one that made me aware that garments don’t need to stay where people perceive them. It’s okay to mix a shirt with a baseball-ribbed jacket.

How is it to work with Tommy Hilfiger?

It’s great! It’s been interesting going back in that corporate world. I’m a creative consultant: I give my ideas, I work with them conceptually; help design the line with everyone else.

How do you decide if an idea is going to Tommy Hilfiger or to your brand?

What’s interesting is even though Hilfiger is more ‘American preppy’ and my brand is more ‘European with a British slant,’ there is enough of a creative gap. To be honest, my products are more refined and subdued; it’s all about the execution. There is a lot less color in my collections, too. Obviously I guess you can see part of my aesthetic, elements of me, in the collections, I mean that’s kind of why they hired me! [Laughs]

What’s your future? What are you going to do next?

We’re currently looking to expand the company; the next jump would be a store, in New York or LA. In five years time I’d love to say we have five to ten stores globally. There is also a possibility of starting a women’s line, maybe in a couple years. I spoke to Anna [Wintour] about it and she told me to stay with menswear for right now, to keep reinforcing what I’m doing. The list is endless of what I want to create but it’s always going to come down to financial [decisions]. It’s a very exciting time. Last January I picked up my first award, which was really great!

Have a look at our varied mix of music for this month, to listen to wherever and whenever you want…

FLORENCE AND THE MACHINE – COSMIC LOVE (SEVEN LIONS REMIX)

AZEALIA BANKS – 212

A-TRAK, JAY-Z & KANYE WEST – WHERE MY MONEY AT

USHER – CLIMAX

MIIKE SNOW – PADDLING OUT (JACQUES LU CONT REMIX)

FRANK OCEAN – SWIM GOOD

SEBASTIEN TELLIER – COCHON VILLE (THE MAGICIAN REMIX)

THE SHOES – TIME TO DANCE (SEBASTIAN REMIX)

ALPINE – HANDS (GOLDROOM REMIX)