Sous-vêtements : back to basics

Unless you have been living in the dark ages, you will more than likely have noticed that the men’s underwear market has skyrocketed of late.

Never before have we been faced with such a choice of colours, fabrics and styles, so much so that we have reached melting point.

If, like me, you are no longer sent into a state of ecstasy by the Holy Trinity (Calvin Klein – Emporio Armani – Diesel), don’t surrender hope just yet ; surrender rather those old pants, shorts or boxers you have been clinging to for dear life and bury them at the bottom of the laundry basket once and for all.

It’s time to declare war on flashy underwear, to learn to say no to logos and to head back to basics.

I set off in search of the perfect pair of pants. Here are my 3 rules to follow if you want to reach the Holy Grail.

1/ Simplicity

Gentlemen, you are busy enough as it is, so don’t set out to make life overcomplicated. Opt for a simple, comfortable and functional model. Careful, though, for simple doesn’t necessarily mean « y-front ».

Bare in mind that neither shape nor colour determines how « sexy » underwear is.
The most important thing is to find a perfectly-fitting pair, for true sex appeal depends on the confidence with which underwear is worn.

First stop Stockholm, home to Ron Dorff, now considered to be an authority on men’s underwear.

Inspired by a model originally designed for the Swedish army, Ron Dorff’s underwear both sculpts and supports, accentuating the male form.

Ron Dorff pousse la simplicité à son paroxysme. Le résultat ? Le 747 Kit, concept tout simplement génial : 7 slips pour les 7 jours de la semaine, délicatement rangés dans un élégant coffret.

Enfin une proposition qui plaira aux plus maniaques d’entre vous !

Ron Dorff pushes simplicity to the limit. The result ? The 747 Kit, an ingenious concept : 7 pairs of briefs for the 7 days of the week, neatly arranged in an elegant presentation case.

At long last a solution for the more OCD among you! This logo-free underwear comes in white and grey cotton with a bonus woolen mesh pair for Sundays.

What more could one ask for? Ron Dorff teaches us two key lessons :

1) If you find the right pair, buy in bulk
2) There’s different underwear for every different occasion. It is important to consider changing model and fabric according to your activities and needs.

2/ Quality

We all have a slightly threadbare pair of boxers we cling on to for dear life.

However, I encourage you to never compromise on quality when it comes to underwear. It is an investment in your personal hygeine and your self-esteem.

Next stop Derbyshire. It’s here, in the heart of the English countryside, that the Sunspel‘s workshops are to be found.

Sunspel was founded in 1860 and has enjoyed a reputation for producing high quality underwear and menswear collections ever since. In 1947, Sunspel introduced Britain to the boxer short.

Suspel stands out from the competition due to exacting standards and an obsession with quality.

All their underwear is handmade using the finest materials, including Peruvian cotton known as «Pima», Egyptian cotton and cashmere.
As well as providing fabrics forThom Browne’s ready-to-wear collections, Suspel has collaborated with Kris Van Assche to create a simple, understated underwear line

At Sunspel it is said that, rather like a good wine, a pair of boxers matures with age.

For loungewear, you can’t beat the loose-fitting boxer, a Suspel classic. For the daytime, choose low-waisted trunks or a simple pair of briefs, available in black or white. As far as quality is concerned, you won’t be disappointed.

3/ Breathability

Underwear should feel like a second skin. Forget heavy, clingy materials such as lycra, and focus your attention on microfibres or organic cotton.

Underwear should feel like a second skin. Forget heavy, clingy materials such as lycra, and focus your attention on microfibres or organic cotton.

We’re off to Switzerland to discover one of the underwear industry’s best kept secrets : Zimmerli.

Remember that white tank top worn by Sylvester Stallone in Rocky? Zimmerli. And that of Joaquin Phoenix in the role of Johnny Cash? Zimmerli.

A rather exclusive brand, Zimmerli counts among its clients Brand Pitt and David Beckham (Yes, even Beckham gave up on Armani boxers!).
The real strength of this brand lies in technical innovation.

Two lines in particular caught my attention : Pureness et le Pure Comfort.

Pureness is made from incredibly light Micromodal fibre : you’d need 10,000 metres of it to reach a weight equivalent to one gram.

Pure Comfort, meanwhile, is made from mercerised cotton, a fabric with a thread count of around 1200 par centimetre squared (as opposed to an average of 600 or 700).

All in all, Zimmerli makes innovation a source of incredible sensuality.

In search of the perfect pair of pants

Having done the rounds of the best European underwear labels, there was only one thing left to do : find the perfect pair ! But does such a thing really exist? The answer to this question was to be found in Sweden, precisely where my journey began.

It is purely by chance that I came across the enigmatic company The White Briefs while shopping online.

Founded in 2009 by husband and wife team Peter and Henriette Simonnson, the young Swedish brand has already managed to give key players in the underwear market a run for their money. The key to their success is simple : timeless, perfectly crafted pieces of impeccable quality.

Their bestseller is a pair of briefs made from white mesh, the result of a successful collaboration with the men’s lifestyle journal Fantastic Man.

When I received the pair in question, my initial reaction was one of slight consternation.

As a rather prudish Brit with quite traditional taste in underwear, I found it hard to imagine myself wearing pants that looked like a fishing net!

As soon as I slipped them on, though, I was impressed by the extreme softness of the organic cotton, the precision of the cut and the lightness of the material used.
I felt both exposed and protected. Such oddly sensual feelings speak volumes about the deeply intimate relationship we all have with our underwear.

The genius of The White Briefs is to have managed to define masculine intimacy through a perfect balance of sensuality and modesty, all the while adhering to my three golden rules : simplicity, quality and breathability. At long last a happy chap, I am reluctant to take them off and plan to rush to the nearest department store to pick up a few spare pairs!

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