Thom Grey vs Thom Browne
Maybe it’s the similarity between the red, white and blue Thom Browne seal and our own logo that made us fall in love with the New York creations from the very start?
But one thing’s for sure, if there were a competition to decide the biggest fan of the brand, the editors at Materialiste would definitely be in first place!
So, when we heard the news that Mr. Browne is going to launch a second line that’s more accessible, Thom Grey, our reaction was slightly ambivalent. On the plus side this means that it’ll cost us a little less to look like Jay Gatsby, but unfortunately affordable prices are almost always synonymous with extreme commercialization, so we were fearing hoards of Thom Grey engulfing Paris.
Collection Printemps-Ete 2013
What’s more, we were unsure whether they’d be able to retain their unique and timeless style while creating a collection that sells more easily. Our doubt was never-ending.
That is, until we saw the first pieces appear on the website of the American giant, Barney’s.
( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )
The first thing we notice is that the prices are still very high, the Thom Grey ties range from $90 to $135 instead of the usual $180 for those signed by Thom Browne. In terms of design, the latter are still a little more exciting, the prints are more fun and the colors are bubblier. In terms of the material, the difference is the way in which the thread is woven, the Thom Browne ties have a smoother and more compact look, whereas the Thom Grey models are looser.
( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )
The Oxford shirts, at $195 (the luxury line versions range from $320 to $425), seem less well cut. The Thom Browne shirts are real gems, hugging the shoulders and the chest impeccably. It seems that there’s more space lower down on the chest and around the armholes. The sleeves have also been modified as they no longer come down halfway along the wrists, but instead end where the hand begins.
( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )
The same goes for the knitwear and cotton sweaters, there’s more room and the dimensions are less unsettling. While Thom Browne’s products are known for being short, coming up above the pelvis, these Thom Grey products are more “mainstream”, looser and more relaxed. The same is true for the shirt sleeves.
( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )
( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )
The pants are high at the waist and tight at the hips, but the Thom Grey‘s are wider under the knees, less fitted than the Thom Browne‘s and almost skinny in proportion at the ankles. In terms of the length, the first pair is hardly any longer, just a few centimeters more than the Thom Browne models, coming down just above the ankles.
( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )
To round up, the suit jackets, blazers and coats are from the same line as the rest of the collection. Easier to wear, longer and more comfortable and with more rounded shoulders.
Here in the office the editors have already fallen in love with the striped varsity jacket with its striking lettering on the back! !
( A gauche, Thom Browne, à droite, Thom Grey )
In terms of the Thom Browne signature look, the famous blue, white and red ‘plaquette’ it has been transformed into three different shades of grey (as the line’s name indicates).
Preview Thom Browne Printemps-Ete 2013 à Londres
In conclusion, the Thom Browne sprit is still there, but slightly toned down and transformed into something a little more reassuring. Few people could pull off the Mad Men look with its retro proportions and its conservative rectitude, so with Thom Grey, the designer his expanding his clientele.
Only available at Barney’s in New York and Harrods in London, the Thom Grey invasion won’t be happening just yet. And so much the better!
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