If there’s one thing that I remember most vividly from the last Fashion Week, it is the ubiquitous ‘hiking boot’. I was nothing short of stunned to see so many well-dressed models wearing them as they strutted their stuff down the runway.

It’s the kind of shoe that I refuse to wear as a matter of principle : ‘shit stompers’, as the more uncouth would have it. Likely to scandalize, if not terrorize fashionistas everywhere, hiking boots have long been considered a necessary evil, reserved for mountaineering types.

The very prospect of trotting around the city in hiking boots or – God forbid – wearing them out on the town, must surely be unthinkable? Or not. A handful of influential fashion designers have decided to take on this bête noire and make it into something…sophisticated.

Protest though you may, the hiking boot will be THE next big thing. Here are a few ridicule-free solutions to help you rock the trend.

It is little suprising that one of the most subversive designers of our generation should take on the challenge. At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci showed an imposing thick-soled model made from black leather. The overall effect is somewhat ‘gothic chic’ and oh-so-Givenchy.

Lucas Ossendrijver decided to make the hiking boot a star feature of the Lanvin Fall Winter 2011 collection. If a good number of brands (including Gucci) made the mistake of interpreting the hiking boot too literally, Lanvin chose to push it to its creative limits.

This reptile print leather version with outer tongue elegantly denies any suspicion of boot laces. A far cry from the garish thick coloured laces so often to be found on hiking boots.

The outer tongue is a recurrent detail in Ossendrijver’s collection this season, as seen on several high-top versions. Available in two different tones (light brown and black), these hiking boots aim to please.

If you’re looking for a more literal take on the hiking boot, you’ll be spoilt for choice. One thinks, for example, of the delightful British brand Folk.

Their up-to-date take on the hiking boot includes a thick rubber-moulded soul similar to that of a sneaker. The suede and classic leather mix softens an all too rigid form, resulting in a chic and relaxed boot.

Much in the same vein, Cesare Paciotti has thought up a ‘weather-beaten’ hiking boot using nubuck. Nothing revolutionary, I hear you cry. On closer inspection, though, one begins to make out a few innovative details : an internal side zip whose counterpoint is to be found in an external zip effect on the soul of the boot. As is often the case with Paciotti, it takes very little to create a powerful design statement.

My lastest shoe crush? These grey suede hiking boots from John Richmond. The designer makes good use of his favorite colour to turn the hiking boot into an elegant and eminently wearable affair, whatever the dresscode may be.

All in all, it would seem rather pointless to resist this trend : it’ll get you in the end. Your time would be better spent looking for a sobre and chic answer to fashion’s latest fad.

Every so often a designer comes along who completely redefines the male wardrobe, venturing beyond the bounds of the traditionally acceptable. A fine example is Riccardo Tisci, whose Givenchy‘s Spring – Summer 2011 collection set the tone for the summer : it’s animal prints or nothing.

Tisci’s creative vision this season provides an ideal opportunity to readdress one of the most controversial subjects in menswear : should we dare to wear animal prints ? Though you may feel that the leopard shorts / leggings combo presented by Tisci is a tad over the top, that doesn’t mean that you should completely rule out playing with this trend.

I emphasize the idea of “playing” with this trend, for animal prints should never be interpreted literally. It’s probably best to avoid head-to-toe leopard print ; opt rather for a statement piece to brighten up an otherwise drab ensemble. We turn to Kanye West for inspiration yet again, who rocked a divine Givenchy leopard bomber jacket by teaming it with a simple grey jumper and jeans.

For the more timid dressers out there, you can always look to animal print accessories for inspiration. To celebrate it’s hundreth anniversary, Italian fashion empire Trussardi brought out a splendid leopard print capsule collection. The travel bag, belt and iPad case are particularly successful pieces, enabling you to dabble with this trend without overdoing it.

On the shoe front, you can quickly end up subject to ridicule, as demonstrated by these Louboutin Nuria sandals. Avoid the cave man look at all costs and aim for a more refined moccasin. I am particularly taken with Giacomorelli’s studded leopard version, which combines elegance and insolence with a bling-bling feel.

Contrary to popular assumptions, animal prints are not exclusive to an ostentatious, cliché vision of luxury. The master of safari chic Yves Saint Laurent underlines this point time and again, adding a delicately wild flavour to neutral summer tones.

For the 2011 season, Stefano Pilati has created a rather sobre leopard waistband in muted tones which blends perfectly with a tawny-toned outfit. Roberto Cavalli applies the same design principle for Spring – Summer 2011, where a printed scarf makes a relatively classic black tuxedo pop.

Still not convinced? A fair few designers have been working to modernize animal prints, the infamous spots having been reworked every which way.

Having revisited the leopard theme for the Lanvin for H&M capsule collection, Lucas Ossendrjiver turns his attention to python this season with a printed t-shirt.

Radically reworking animal patterns with loud colours or oversized motifs enables designers to remain in keeping with current trends while breaking up dense blocks of print.

Some designers even go so far as to redefine what we mean by “animal”, offering rather a free interpretation of original prints. For Spring / Summer 2011, British designer James Long showed leather garments printed with a motif one might describe as a cross between “animal” and “ink blot”, with a result at once fresh and striking.

At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière stands out once again by daring to take on the most outrageous of all animal prints : zebra. The handcrafted bold brush stroke effet avoids any danger of literal interpretation, lending a strangely futuristic note to the ensemble.

If abstract, avant-garde fashion is not your cup of tea, don’t give up hope just yet! For the more fashion forward among you, there is one last option : adopt a bold, over-the-top animal print and wear it with pride! Take inspiration from the J.W. Anderson for Topman collection, where one finds this quirky vest top with oversized spots. Another key reference, Chloé Sevigny for Opening Ceremony offers a gangster-inspired cap with a bright animal print.

Gentlemen, it’s now or never! At best, people will admire you for your daring ; at worst, you will be accused of poor taste. You can be sure of this much : your style choice will inevitably turn heads.

Picture 1, Courtesy of Numéro (20)

It is little more than a fine strip of material we tie around our necks but, once worn, the bow tie takes on a wealth of meaning. At once nostalgic and subversive, geometrical and slightly off-kilter, this accessory offers endless scope for expression to designers and wearers alike.

If the bow tie was long considered « quirky » at best, it is no longer monopolized by stuffy university professors and antiques specialists and has come to be an indispensable accessory for fashion-conscious men.

Bow ties have become as varied in shape (the classic « Thistle » , the square-tipped « Bat Wing », assymetrical or oversized models) as in print (Liberty, Paisley, Gingham, tartan, polka-dot, striped).

So vast a choice means that trendsetters have been able to revolutionize the way in which bow ties are worn. Pharrell Williams often teams his with sweaters for a laid-back look, while Kanye West goes for the preppy approach with a blazer-jean combination.

The beauty of the bow tie is that it can either dress up a « street » look, or dress down more formal attire.

But the real question that divides bow tie lovers is whether to choose a traditional « self-tie » model or a clip-on.

Purists will tell you that the only way forward is a « real » bow tie, even if that means having to learn how to tie the damn thing! This option does have its merits, though, most notably the possibility of nonchalantly unravelling the knot at the end of the night. Doing your own bow tie will also stop you from succombing to the trappings of perfection.

No longer confined to a formal context, bow ties can be worn with an irreverent sense of freedom. Another school of thought advocates choosing clip-on models, especially since designers such as Alber Elbaz have come up with looser, more fluid styles.

A constant source of inspiration, bow ties made a big come back on the runway during the last Men’s Fashion Week.

At Alexis Mabille, who has made the bow tie a central feature of his collections, we saw a slim and soft design worn underneath the iconic loose-fit « Bow Tie Club » t-shirts.

Slender and slight were also the order of the day at Lanvin, where a series of bow ties were on display.

Adam Kimmel, a rising star in field the menswear accessories, presented an American-inspired collection whose leitmotiv was a generous red and blue bow.

Beyond the key players of the menswear scene, it is a pleasure to discover a handful of designers specializing in neckwear.

This year the Parisian concept store Colette honoured New York designer Alexander Olch with a capsule collection called « The Little Guy ».

An influential figure as ties and bow ties go, Olch even went so far as to produce a short film intended to teach men how to tie a good knot :

Another major name in bow ties, Laurent Desgrange brings a highly modern flavour to traditional craftsmanship techniques with surprising results.

The bold designer, a former stylist at Mugler, even goes so far as to place bow ties on trainer tongues to create a powerful « street » look.

Laurent Desgrange sums up elegantly the essence of the bow tie when he declares « I’m not responsible for making bow ties cool. It is thanks to those men who wear them in a lighthearted and witty tongue-in-cheek way. »

For my second look, I drew inspiration from James Bond – esque cocktail party attire which puts a modern twist on the traditional tuxedo + bowtie combination.

A stunning Dior Homme draped jacket worn over a white shirt embroidered with hundreds of tiny Swarovski crystals, accompanied by a mat black, ceramic bowtie.  Lanvin jogging trousers worn with sequined Giacomorelli shoes, (and then Giacomorelli ribboned shoes).

Veste : Dior Homme

Pantalon : Lanvin

Chemise : Giuliano Fujiwara & Swarovski

Souliers à paillettes : Giacomorelli

Souliers à ruban : Giacomorelli

Nœud papillon en céramique : Cor Sine Labe Doli

The Italian brand Chez Susi has unveiled its new selection of must have trainers for this Autumn-Winter.

DIOR HOMME

Dior Homme combines matt and polished materials whilst maintaining the sporty aspect of sneakers.

(1)470€ (2)400€ (3)360€ (4)410€

Y-3

Yohji Yamamoto juxtaposes matt leather with satin materials throughout the collection.

(1) 278€ (2) 269€

FENDI

Fendi’s military boots are both classic and extremely practical.

(1) 530€

LANVIN

Lanvin’s line of fashion sneakers is extremely varied and comes with a great range of sizes and designs.

Lanvin for H&M ! It’s now official, this winter event will be without a doubt the collaboration between the so Parisian fashion house and the giant Swedish.

More information to come on 9^th of September, as we are hoping the quality and finishes wont be betrayed by the mass market effect, even if we are delighted of this news that excites us tremendously!

A shopping selector dedicated to the Italian boutique SUSI store, which we tried out during the sales because of their exceptional offers on Lanvin trainers.

Lanvin, Dior Homme, Moncler, Givenchy and many other brands are part of a very exclusive selection that nevertheless offers a lot of choice.

T-shirts, coats and accessories

Moncler offer a lightweight coat in an intense electric blue made of the original fabric that they used for their successful down jackets (301,60€) as well as a polo shirt from the blue range (87,50€).

Love makes heads spin with Dior Homme’s Roman lettering t-shirt (88,90€) that goes perfectly with the white fitted jeans (242,20€).

The exclusive collection of watches from Jean-Charles de Castelbajac’s POP HOURS Lego-style range (129€).

The PLAY t-shirt, a simple design that is immediately recognizable as being from Comme de Garçons. (82€)

With Y3, you can prepare yourself for bad weather and cold colours with a red tech coat made of synthetic materials (201,60€) as well as a soft black briefcase (100,80€).

Finally Nixon, the brand that has imposed its minimalist style on watch making, launches its audio range with Nomadic, a remarkable pair of brushed-aluminium headphones (99€).

Trainers – Lanvin

A very comprehensive selection of Lanvin trainers with a large range of sizes.

Only released a few hours ago, here is the unconventional collection of Lanvin necklaces, bracelets and cufflinks designed by Lucas Ossendrijver.

These reflective LANVIN tags are the flagship pieces in the Spring/Summer 2010 collection, and we were able to check out almost all of the looks in this range. They are choker-style necklaces, with an extremely fine silver chain, and come in silver, bronze or fuchsia. Personally, I chose the silver version!

Expect to pay a little under 200€ for the choker.

To celebrate their 120-year anniversary, the Lanvin fashion house will release two stamps designed by Alber Elbaz as a very limited edition. The two works bring back the brand’s historic logo of the mother and her daughter.

The post office on rue des Mathurins will also offer a collection of ceramic hearts, pens, writing paper and notebooks in the New Year.

Prepare as always to queue!

Alchemist is the most interesting fashion boutique in Miami Beach.

If I told you that a quarter of the people here wear Christian Audigier & Co. (Ed Hardy, Von Dutch…), would you believe me? Unfortunately, we have established that it is the sad truth… It was hard indeed to find a smart fashion boutique in this world of studs, sequins and ridiculous colours, but we managed to find a real gem: Alchemist.

Located on Lincoln Road, the most famous, and busiest street in Miami, it was a risky gamble to set up shop next to none other than the flagship Christian Audigier store. Spurred on by our curiosity, the list of designers in the window fuelled our desire to investigate further: “Alaïa, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, Dior Homme, The Row, Alexander Wang, Comme des garçons, Jil Sander, Martin Margiela, Undercover, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Hervé Léger, Lucien Pellat Finet and Libertine“. Name dropping to the extreme (but what do you expect, it’s Miami!). Let’s just say it reassured us.

Strangely, this welcoming boutique does not seem to attract much business. Maybe their target customers are few and far between in bling land?

Both the men’s and women’s collections are intelligently chosen, and the Alchemist shop assistant certainly knows her stuff: there is no reason to be jealous of Parisian boutiques. So, there are leather-covered accessories from Natialia Brilli (check out this skateboard as well as the leather-covered helmet), as well as risqué Rick Owens trainers alongside the more conventional Dior Homme low-tops.

Alchemist has also allowed itself the indulgence of collaborating with Lucien Pellat Finet, the famous luxury (and pricy) cashmere specialist, with a series of original t-shirts.

Unfortunately, the choice of sizes is fairly limited, as is the turnover according to the boutique’s very friendly manager and sales assistant.

If you were looking for more mainstream designs (Jeremy Scott et al,), you would prefer Base (on the opposite pavement of the same street), and if you are attracted to luxury and ultra-luxury items (Hermès, Lanvin and Chanel) then you should take a look at Bal Harbour Shops.

Alchemist

438 Lincoln Road – Miami Beach, FL33139

T: 305 531 4653